It’s not only mustangs, mythical surf breaks, secret waterfalls and palm-fringed shores that render Sumba so seductive. Impossibly escapist, this still-pristine island also has a host of high-quality beachfront stays to suit all budgets, mostly scattered around its spectacular southwest. And while comfort and leisure are key tenets, these properties put an equal emphasis — unlike elsewhere in Indonesia — on sustainability, on celebrating nature and on connecting guests with Sumba’s mystical Marapu culture. Here are six stand-out examples.
1. NIHI Sumba
Go for: Legendary surfing, paddleboarding and horse-aided healing
After moving to the island in 1989, Claude Graves launched a resort beside the cult surf break Occy’s Left; his humanitarian Sumba Foundation followed in 2001. Overhauled under new ownership in 2012, that resort is now NIHI Sumba, a place that’s at once ultra-luxurious and soothingly low-key. Built using local materials by Sumbanese craftsmen, most of its 28 thatched villas supply infinity-edged plunge pools, complimentary mini-bars and private butlers. In between trying spearfishing or paddleboarding past water buffalo, guests can eat well in the ocean-facing Ombak restaurant or investigate a beach club, spa bales, equine therapy experiences and even an on-site chocolate factory. As for Occy’s Left, only 15 surfers may ride this each day; register when booking to be one of them.
2. Haweri Estate
Go for: Exclusive-use villas and a beach all to yourself
The headland beside NIHI Sumba, between dense tropical rainforest and sea, hosts this swanky, fully-staffed estate. Ideal for special events or big gatherings, it’s available exclusively on a private basis, with the estate configurable for different group sizes. In total, there’s room for ten adults plus two children; including a two-story treehouse, all five villas champion handmade Sumbanese design such as elaborate, vivid ikat weavings. You’ll have the run of four pools, a ten-person hot tub, a waterfront yoga platform and a private, sugar-white cove, while the communal hilltop pavilion includes a great kitchen, if needed, and outdoor decks positioned for sunsets over the Indian Ocean. Above all, stillness reigns, causing relaxation to come easily.
3. The Sanubari
Go for: Immersive Sumbanese culture and traditional experiences
It might line two kilometers of white sand in Sumba’s southwest, on a 100-hectare estate bordered by photogenic rice paddies. It might have nine minimal beachside villas, most boasting their own pool, as well as a tiki bar where cocktails are sipped through papaya straws and a restaurant serving Indo-Western fusion food. But don’t think that the understated Sanubari (meaning “soul”) is just another luxury resort. In fact, this is a place which prioritizes Sumbanese connection as much as comfort. Not only do staff mostly hail from this area and woven puraka rice baskets bedeck every room, but the activity list includes informative visits to traditional villages; local-led weaving classes; guided waterfall walks; and swimming with horses courtesy of on-site stables.
4. Cap Karoso
Go for: Contemporary design, food and farm-to-table experiences
Out on Sumba’s wild western extremity, this eco-conscious hideaway is set amid megalithic tombs, traditional villages, jungle and aquamarine sea. Its namesake beach, with an expanse of pale powder, is enticing, but so are cooking classes, birdwatching tours and sunset cruises. Fishing and surfing trips can be arranged as well, although two large pools and the on-site spa, referencing traditional Sumbanese architecture, make staying put similarly tempting. A kids’ club pleases parents, as do 20 bigger, more private villas complementing the 40 rooms. All showcase a tropical-modern style, with island art interspersing Parisian references; a similar east-west balance informs the three restaurants, where French and Mediterranean approaches marry local dishes. Many ingredients hail from Cap Karoso’s organic farm.
5. Lelewatu Resort
Go for: Romance, clifftop views and active adventures
Inspired by local Marapu villages, with their thatched and pitched roofs, Lelewatu’s 27 artisanal villas line a high southwest clifftop where the rainforest runs out. As well as a private plunge pool, sensational sea views through gigantic windows — watch for dolphins — and a netted four-poster bed, you’ll get a devoted butler. They can simply arrange outings to prime local surf spots, sign you up for horse rides, recommend beautiful cycling routes or advise on which nearby beach you might most like. Then again, given that the romantic estate has a sweeping infinity pool and a spa offering Sumbanese-style massage, staying put may prove equally tempting. At night, freshly caught seafood peppers the two restaurants’ international-meet-Indonesian cuisine.
6. Ngalung Kalla Retreat
Go for: Yoga, permaculture and off-grid adventures
Also in Sumba’s southwest, meditative Ngalung Kalla is grounded in the tenets of permaculture — earth care, people care, fair share — and regenerative tourism. Solar power underpins its off-grid, open-air bungalows, which overlook a secluded bay, while meals in an oceanfront restaurant mine organic produce from the extensive gardens. Some guests sign up for daily yoga or nature walks as others opt to snorkel, hike to secret springs or surf with owners Christian and Ka’ale Sea, who have lived on Sumba for decades. Hands-on permaculture classes are also available, while stargazing is encouraged as light pollution is minimized. Most memorably, a 60-meter cable bridge, suspended above the rainforest, leads to a spectacular infinity pool with more splendid sea views.