Ultimate Sumba Road Trip Itinerary: 7 Days from West to East

Sumba has a very wild west image in my mind. This is perhaps due to its large and empty swaths of tropical grassland, where wild horses run freely, or the fact that I happened to watch Marlina the Murderer in Four Acts long before my first trip to the island (I recommend it, interesting film).

Regardless, as a road trip fan, this island of nostalgia has always been a favorite for me. And I know that this is the case for many other daredevils who crave wide-open horizons. So, I am here to provide you with the perfect 7-day route that will take you from lush West to spectacular East, along with some insider tips. Grab a cup of coffee and a good notebook, because we’ll dive deep!

Itinerary Details 7 days

• 489 km
• 12h 14m

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There is a lot to see and do in Sumba. The island’s traditional villages are very well known by everyone, as it’s one of the main selling points. Plus, many hidden lagoons, pools, waterfalls, and beaches across the island contribute to its anti-Bali reputation.

Thanks to the island’s huge size, exploring all of it takes quite a while. Nevertheless, you can make the best of your visit in just a week. Keep reading and find my ultimate Sumba road trip itinerary below!

Day 1: Arrival in West Sumba

Objective: Get yourself adjusted to driving in Sumba

Arrive in Tambolaka to kick start your exciting road trip. While smaller than some of the other major towns, Tambolaka is still a prominent settlement where you can find most of the essentials. I recommend you find a morning flight and arrive before noon. This way, you can spend the entire afternoon adjusting to the island’s pace.

There are various resorts and villas in the area, such as Newa Sumba Resort or Villa Redemptorist. So, finding a place to stay near the airport shouldn’t be an issue. You can easily get used to the road during your trip from the airport to the accommodation.

Spare your first day for adjusting to driving on the island. In the end, you won’t have much time to do sightseeing, since you will waste some hours getting the vehicle, checking into your hotel and settling in. You can perhaps take a short drive to a nearby beach or viewpoint to weigh the roads and driving difficulty.

Pantai Kawona and Pantai Tawaga are beaches near Tambolaka, and they might be the perfect destination for a first-day drive (if you are based in the vicinity, of course).

Day 2: Lagoons and Coastal Landscapes

Objective: Explore calm turquoise waters

Your second day in Sumba is when the road trip truly begins. Get up early and start preparing, since Weekuri Lagoon is best visiting in the morning.

Getting to Weekuri Lagoon from Tambolaka takes approximately an hour by car.  Make sure to eat something before the journey, since finding something along the way is virtually impossible.

The route to Weekuri is rural but very enjoyable. You will drive approximately 30 minutes along a very narrow two-lane road until you get near the village of Guna Hairo. This is your last chance to stock up snacks and necessities, because the rest of the journey will be through lush greenery and dry plains with only occasional encounters with tiny settlements.

After another half an hour of drive, you will arrive at Weekuri, a very peaceful lagoon famous for its turquoise water. You can spend time swimming and snorkeling there. If you are into photography, you won’t want to leave this spot.

On the way back, you can stop at various coastal viewpoints along the way, before returning for a relaxed afternoon. There are several villages off the road, such as Kampung Bondo Maliti, that you can stop for a while and purchase local crafts. You will spend approximately two to three hour on the road, depending on your pace.

Day 3: Waterfalls and Villages

Objective: Transition from natural to traditional

Third day of your trip is when you travel inland to discover hidden waterfalls and traditional villages. The most charming thing about Sumba is how many tiny cascades and natural pools there are with little to no publicity. It is very much possible that you are the first tourist to see a waterfall deep inside the island’s forests.

You can drive eastward to see the Panggar Waterfall in Mamboro. The journey is about 1 hour and 20 minutes from Tambolaka and leads you through the vast highlands of Sumba. Along the road, you can visit Waikelo Sawah, a very popular attraction with mammoth cascades and lush plains. Waikelo Sawah is 50 minutes from Tambolaka and definitely worth a couple of hours spending.

There are several traditional villages around Waikabubak, like the famous villages of Prai Ijing or Tarung. Usually, one or two hours per village is enough for solo visitors. If you book a guided tour, the explanations and demonstrations might extend the duration.

I recommend visitors to book a hotel for two nights in Waikabubak to avoid driving back to Tambolaka and enjoy the town at its fullest.

Day 4: Drive to the Southwest Coast

Objective: Just enjoy the road

The first part of your trip is done. You can now enjoy Waikabubak’s main town energy. The town has a vibrant marketplace, where you can purchase local crafts and souvenirs. You can find many local warungs in the town with delicious local dishes. Let’s not forget that Waikabubak is also a great base to explore the southwestern coastline.

Before noon, you can drive to Watu Malandong Beach; the route takes about 2 hours from Waikabubak, yet the destination is worth every minute. Alternatively, you can drive an additional 10 to 15 minutes and see the beaches of Ratenggaro and Pero.

If you set off early, you can even add two beaches in your itinerary. Do not expect very advanced facilities, since beach infrastructure is quite basic. Schedule the trip well, leave early and avoid driving at night since the roads are poorly lit.

Day 5: Beaches and Relaxation

Objective: Sand, sea, sun and delicious drinks

Since Southwest Coast is home to the best beaches in Sumba, there is no doubt you should spare an additional day exploring its stunning coasts. However, for the fifth day of your trip, I have a more relaxing suggestion: a whole day dedicated to resting. Hop in your car and drive to Palamoko or Kerewei beach. These two beaches are highly favored by the locals.

There are pubs and restaurants around the beaches. So, you can rest assured that you won’t have to drive for hours just to get some food.

Waikabubak is close, you can return whenever you want and prepare for the following day, which will be the longest and most tiring of your entire trip.

Day 6: Crossing the Savanna

Objective: Marvel at vast grasslands

On day six, you will take a very long journey towards Waingapu. If you took my advice and stayed in Waikabubak on your third day, the journey will take about 3 hours, with stunning savanna views and passage through the picturesque Wairinding.

If you are setting off from Tambolaka, however, you can either drive to Waikabubak, which extends the route to 4 hours, or take a more coastal route for a longer (5 hours) yet more breathtaking journey. Once you arrive, you can spend a slow afternoon eating, resting and enjoying Waingapu’s coastal charm.

There are guesthouses in Waibakul and Lewa on the route from Waikabubak to Wangapu, in case you want to rest along the way. If you take a coastal route, there is Sumba Beach by Anna Villas near Memboro.

Expect a long but very rewarding journey. Book your hotel in Waingapu before setting off and make sure to prepare a very good playlist. If you wish to spend more time in the East, we also have a guide on exploring Sumba beyond savanna in four days.

Day 7: Final Exploration and Departure

Objective: Bask in the dramatic Sumba atmosphere one last time

Your trip is almost done. You can now enjoy Waingapu’s gorgeous beaches and bask in the warmth of the Eastern sun. Temu Beach is a good option for a cozy morning. There are many beach hotels and resorts along the coastline, where you can have the most delicious drinks watching the turquoise horizon.

In the afternoon, drive to Watumbaka Savanna to witness the unfathomable grasslands. The trip will take about 30 minutes, as it’s very close to Waingapu. After enjoying the scenery, you can drive 10 minutes to Walakiri Beach.

Walakiri is famous for mangrove trees along the coastline and a very dramatic sunset. As the sun descends, the sky turns red and the silhouettes of mangroves seem like dancing figures. Don’t forget to take lots of stunning photos.

East Sumba might be less developed than the Western part of the island. However, with the completion of Trans-Sumba Highway and recent opening of Myze Hotel Waingapu, tourism infrastructure in the East seems to catching up. So, I assure any road trip enthusiasts that East Sumba won’t disappoint you.

If you like this itinerary and wish to experience it yourself, I have a few insider tips to share with you. However, before starting, I must admit that driving in Sumba can be very challenging for those who aren’t used to driving in the countryside. So, you can always hire a driver to join you on the journey.

Still want to drive yourself around? Here’s all you need to know:

• If you stop at traditional villages, don’t enter any building or take photos without permission.
• Get a 4WD, no other type of car can get you through the hardy roads of Sumba.
• Always start your day early in the morning; getting around by car takes time in Sumba and you wouldn’t want to stay too late as driving at night is not recommended at all. The roads are unlit and animals often sleep on them, rendering them quite challenging for a non-local driver at night.
• Keep water and snacks in the car. Stock up before driving to a remote area since finding a market or kiosk could be very difficult.
• Don’t trust Google Maps (or whichever application you use) when it comes to travel time and distance. Unpaved and unmapped routes are abundant in Sumba and real travel duration might be way longer than the estimate. Plus, be prepared for unexpected stops.