If you wish to understand Sumba’s culture, you must understand the Sandalwood Pony. These small and hardy equines remain the living heartbeat of a culture that has resisted the tides of change for centuries.
Sandalwood Ponies are locally known as Jara and play a significant role in Sumbanese society. They serve as a means of transportation, symbol of status and, culturally, a bridge to the spiritual realm. They are also the central protagonist in one of Indonesia’s most spectacular traditional ceremonies, the Pasola.
With a history intertwined with colonial trade routes and being dependent on conservation, the Sandalwood Pony represents a unique intersection of ecology, tradition, and identity.
A Brief History of the Sandalwood Pony
Where did Sandalwood Ponies come from? Have they always been there? Their story is deeply intertwined with something that shaped Sumba’s own history: trade. Long before the Dutch arrived, Sumba was known for its sandalwood, a precious wood that drew merchants from China and beyond. In fact, the island was even known as the “Sandalwood Island” in the West. Nevertheless, when the Dutch East India Company showed up, they saw another valuable asset: horses.
In the 1700s and 1800s, they started breeding programs on Sumba, crossing Arabian and Persian horses with the tough local stock. The result was a pony that combined the Arabian’s elegance with the hardiness of a horse that had already survived Sumba’s dry hills and rocky savannas for generations.
Traders called these ponies “Sandalwood Pony,” from the island’s then-name. Whereas the sandalwood trees are mostly gone now, the ponies are still everywhere. They are very small in stature, only about twelve to thirteen hands high; but do not let their size fool you, Sandalwood Ponies are incredibly strong, surefooted, and built for the tough environment.
The Heart of the Pasola Festival
Sandalwood Ponies are among the main actors of the world-famous Pasola festival, a special ritual war event where mounted warriors engage in mock battle. This special festival is celebrated every year, between the months of February and March, and timed to the arrival of the nyale (sea worms) on the shore. Pasola warriors prepare for months training their horses.
The event itself is a wild, dangerous spectacle: hundreds of riders in traditional ikat cloth and headdresses gallop across a huge open field, flinging wooden spears at each other at full speed. People get hurt. It is intense.
At the center of all this demonstration is the horse. Pasola is the ultimate test of Sumbanese horsemanship. The bond between rider and horse is everything. Training starts when the horse is young. Riders do not rely heavily on bits; they use their legs and body weight to guide the horse, because they need their hands free to throw spears. In the weeks before Pasola, horses are conditioned hard, galloping across rough savanna to build stamina, getting used to the noise of huge crowds and the clash of spears.
The relationship between a Pasola warrior and his horse runs deep. Most riders ride horses that have been in their family for generations. In the heat of the battle, when horses are crashing into each other and spears are flying, the animal has to be brave. A good Pasola horse does not shy away but it charges straight into the chaos. A warrior’s reputation is tied to his horse’s performance. When you see a skilled rider and his horse weaving through the action, you are seeing years of trust and training in motion. It is a partnership like no other.
Where to Encounter Them
If you visit Sumba, you will see Sandalwood Ponies everywhere. However, the prime location to witness the grandeur of these creatures, of course, is the Pasola festival in West Sumba. In the ritual grounds of Lamboya, Kodi, and Wanukaka, you can observe the agility and endurance of these creatures, as their riders engage in battle.
Even outside festival season, the ponies are a constant presence in Sumba. Head to the rolling savannas of East or West Sumba, and you will often see herds of semi-wild ponies grazing under the lontar palms. It is a beautiful sight.
In traditional villages like Ratenggaro or Praijing, you will find horses tied up beneath stilted houses. They are part of everyday life, carrying goods, riding to the fields, or simply signifying the family’s status. Some villages now offer eco-tourism experiences where you can learn how families care for their ponies.
A word about being respectful: these horses are not just tourist props. They are treasured animals with deep cultural meaning. If you go to Pasola, stay well back from the field and never try to cross it during the action. If you want to photograph a horse or rider in a village, ask first. Do not feed the horses without permission, since owners often have strict routines. And if you are thinking about a riding tour, choose operators who treat their animals well. A little care goes a long way.
Future of Sandalwood Ponies
Despite their importance, Sandalwood Ponies face challenges. One big issue is genetic mixing. For years, people have been crossbreeding them with larger, faster horses like Thoroughbreds to create better racehorses. That is starting to dilute the original bloodlines that made these ponies so tough and well-adapted to Sumba. Conservation groups and local government are now working to set up breeding registries and protect the traditional strains.
Modern life also puts pressure on ponies. Climate change means longer dry seasons, which makes it harder to afford to feed. Plus, as younger Sumbanese are more drawn to motorbikes than to horses, the practical need for horses is shrinking. Not to mention that, sometimes, families cannot keep up with the costs.
But there is hope. The Indonesian government has recognized the Sandalwood Pony as a cultural heritage breed. Tourism, especially that around Pasola, is giving people a reason to keep the traditions alive. When travelers come and show genuine interest, it creates economic value that supports the ponies and the families who raise them.
Ultimately, the Sandalwood Pony is more than just a horse. It is a living part of Sumba’s identity. As long as Pasola still runs, as long as dowries still include a good stallion, and as long as funerals still send souls off on horseback, this tough little pony will keep galloping into the future.